Roasted Poblano Corn Muffins

Okay, so I decided that black bean soup (http://bit.ly/fimd0P) was a great idea... but that it would be an even better idea if it was served next to some cornmeal muffins. Argue with me if you dare: I'm pretty sure I'm right.

Unlike many baked items, the batter for corn muffins can be altered in any number of ways and still turn out perfectly. Feel free to fold in chopped veggies, bacon, or ham (be sure to cook these ingredients first!). When corn is back in season next summer, add some diced fresh corn. Add a teaspoon or two of diced fresh herbs, or (if you want your muffins to be particularly zesty) 2 t of chili powder and 1/2 t of cumin. And, of course, some grated cheese also works well in this recipe. For any of these variations, just substitute whatever addition(s) you've decided upon for the poblano pepper and fold them in during step 3.

However, I decided to keep it fairly simple tonight, since the black bean soup is already hearty and flavorful. So, I roasted one poblano pepper (for info on roasting peppers, visit my previous post on "Spinach, Mushroom, Kalamata and Roasted Pepper White Pizza," http://bit.ly/ghDRsq).

One warning: this recipe makes a batter that is thinner than many muffin batters. Don't worry. It will be okay. :-)

All other hints and tips are worked right into the recipe. And that's that: enjoy!

Roasted Poblano Corn Muffins

• 1 1/4 c yellow cornmeal
• 1 1/4 c sifted all-purpose flour
• 2/3 c granulated sugar
• 2 t baking powder
• 1 t baking soda
• 1/2 heaping t salt
• 1 c sour cream
• 1 c milk
• 4 eggs, beaten
• 1 stick butter, melted
• 1 roasted poblano pepper, diced

1. Combine the dry ingredients with a whisk.
2. Mix together the sour cream, milk, eggs and butter. Add to the dry ingredients and stir just until blended.
3. Fold in the poblano pepper.
4. Portion into a greased muffin tin, filling approximately two-thirds full.
5. Bake at 375 degrees F until done, approximately 20 to 25 minutes.

Vegan Black Bean Soup

There is a thin layer of snow on the tarp that covers the wood for our stove. The cats are sleeping, curled up in a shameless display of relaxation.  It is definitely a good night for a hot and hearty soup.

After a fairly lengthy debate with myself regarding what soup to make, I decided upon black bean soup.

Black beans have a rich, satisfying flavor that is simply perfect on a cold evening. They are an incredible source of folate (a B vitamin), dietary fiber, tryptophan (an amino acid), protein, magnesium, thiamin (another B vitamin), and phosphorus: they are also a very good source of iron. The fiber level in black beans is high enough that it has been shown in several studies to lower cholesterol levels and maintain healthy blood sugar levels. Black beans also contain molybdenum, which has been shown to help detoxify sulfites. If you combine them with brown rice (and yes, this recipe is great served over rice), they supply you with complete protein amino acids. A study published in Food Chemistry and Toxicology concluded that regular consumption of black beans results in "a clear reduction in pre-cancerous cells." Regular consumption of legumes such as black beans has also been correlated with a significant (up to 82%) reduction in the risk of heart disease. And, as if that wasn't enough, black beans have been proven to contain 10 times the number of antioxidants in a comparable amount of oranges. Pretty nifty, eh?

(I now have visions in my head of all the healthy, not-taking-any-shit, 90+ year-old trannies that will be running around the world in the years to come, changing the world for the better, thanks to recipes like this one!)

And yet... you may be aware that beans are well-known for making a certain bodily orifice considerably more vocal and, ummmmm, fragrant. However, there is an easy way to minimize the gaseous potential of these nutritionally heroic legumes. When you cook them yourself (as you will do when you follow this recipe) instead of using canned beans, you will notice that a white foam collects on the surface of the soup. Whenever you notice a good amount of this foam, simply skim it off and discard it. It's just that simple: now you can enjoy all of the nutritional benefits while minimizing the odorous aftermath. Huzzah!

To soak the beans, either cover them in warm water and allow them to soak overnight, or else add them to boiling water, remove from heat, and allow to sit for 1-2 hours. Either way, make sure you use enough water to cover the beans with about 3 inches of water above the surface of the beans. In addition to shortening their cooking time, this will also help reduce the amount of gas that the beans will produce.

One more thing about the beans: do not-- I repeat, do not-- add the salt or the lime zest and juice until after the beans are fully cooked. If you add salt or acid to the broth before the beans are cooked, they will take longer to cook and the beans themselves will be tougher. One more time: the beans will never soften properly if you add salt or acid to the broth before they are fully cooked. Got it? Good.

Regarding the lime that is used in the soup (as opposed to the one that is used for garnish): zest it before you juice it. It's just easier that way.

This recipe also uses roasted garlic and a roasted bell pepper. For a refresher on how to roast these two ingredients, please refer to my earlier post "Spinach, Mushroom, Kalamata and Roasted Pepper White Pizza," http://transgustatory.blogspot.com/2010/10/spinach-mushroom-kalamata-and-roasted.html.

And that's all I have to say about that. Here's the recipe:

Vegan Black Bean Soup

• 1 pound dried black beans, soaked
• 2 T vegetable oil
• 1 large Vidalia onion, chopped
• 2 Anaheim chilies, diced
• 2 Serrano chilies, minced
• 4 carrots, peeled and sliced at least 1/4" thick
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 roasted red bell pepper, chopped coarsely
• 4 quarts (1 gallon) vegetable stock
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 t dried thyme
• 1/2-1 t freshly ground pepper
• 1 heaping t cumin
• 1 heaping t ground coriander
• 1 t dried oregano
• zest of one lime
• juice of one lime (the same lime)
• 1 head roasted garlic
• salt and pepper to taste
• lime wedges (for serving)
• fresh cilantro, chopped (for serving)
• sour cream (or vegan substitute), optional

Skim this foam off of your soup, or you'll be sorry!

1.  While the beans are soaking, saute the onion until soft and translucent. Add the chilies and the carrots and saute 3-5 minutes longer, until the chilies are softened and the carrots are bright orange. Add the garlic and saute 2-3 minutes longer, until fragrant. Stir in the bell pepper and remove from heat. 
2. Combine the beans and stock in a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and add the onion/chili/carrot mixture. Stir in the cumin, coriander, and oregano. 
3. Simmer the soup, uncovered, approximately 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours, skimming the surface as necessary and discarding the foam (see above). The beans should be very soft, just beginning to fall apart. Add additional water if necessary. 
4. Puree about half of the soup with the lime zest, lime juice, and roasted garlic cloves, then stir back into the remaining soup:  make sure that there are no bay leaves in the soup that you are pureeing!! Season to taste with salt and pepper. 
5. Serve in bowls and garnish with lime wedges, cilantro, and sour cream (optional).

Bread Pudding

Today, I am going to not one, but TWO Thanksgiving meals: one with a friend's wonderful family, and one with the sangha at the Zen Center.

Seriously: there are so many things for which I am grateful.  Not only do I have the ability to cook, but I have the physical capability to do it (no small thing, when we're humbly honest with ourselves), food to cook with, and so many incredible people with whom to break bread and share water.

Just for today, I am going to set aside my righteous indignation regarding the injustices in the world and my frustrations about the genocidal roots of the historical holiday, and just be grateful. After all, if even Noam Chomsky can take a day off (http://bitURL.net/auac), then I can too.

 Each of the two meals is a potluck: after all, Thanksgiving is a lot saner when everyone chips in. I am going to make two Beet, Potato and Wild Mushroom Casseroles (http://bitURL.net/auae), the subject of one of my previous blog posts. I am also going to make the following recipe for Bread Pudding, just because.

This recipe is deceptive: for as layered and exquisite as the flavor is, it is surprisingly easy to make. It is also a great recipe to help prevent food waste: whenever I get a few too many bagels, or if a loaf of bread isn't getting eaten as quickly as it usually does, I save them in the freezer rather than discarding them. Of course, it is important to wrap the bread well, so that it doesn't get freezer-burnt, and to thaw it thoroughly before using. After thawing, go ahead and double-check the flavor, just to ascertain that there is no freezer-burn taste. It's better to check now than to wish you had later.

 Because I am taking this recipe to two different celebrations, I will be baking it in two separate pie pans instead of in a 13-by-9 inch baking pan. You, too, can choose to bake it in bread pans or a Bundt pan: just be sure to be EXTRA attentive to the cooking time if you do so, because it can change quite dramatically when differently-sized pans are used.

Bread Pudding

• 1/2 cup (slightly heaping) golden raisins
• 1/4 c amaretto
• 4 T butter, melted
• 12 oz. (approx. 4-5 cups, depending on the density of the baked goods) bread, bagels, or pastries, day-old
• 1 qt. light cream
• 3 eggs
• 1 2/3 c sugar
• 1 T vanilla extract

1. Combine the raisins and the amaretto in a small saucepan. Heat just to a simmer, cover, and set aside.
2. Use a portion of the butter to thoroughly coat a 13-by-9 inch baking pan or two 9-inch pie pans. Reserve the remaining butter.
3. Tear the bread into chunks and place in a large bowl. Pour the cream over the bread and set aside until soft. 
4. Beat the eggs and sugar until smooth and thick. Add the vanilla, the remaining melted butter, and the raisins and amaretto.
5. Toss the eegg mixture with the bread gently to blend. Pour into the pan(s) and bake at 350 degrees F until browned and almost set, approximately 45 minutes. 
6. Serve warm.

Saag Paneer

-please feel free to enter your own clever anecdote here: I am busy doing mundane tasks such as laundry, which has left me satisfied, but not particularly inspired.-

This recipe is yummy. It is healthy. It elevates spinach to a whole different plane of delicious. Try it sometime.

Saag Paneer

• 20 oz. baby spinach leave, washed and rinsed well
• 4 t butter or ghee, divided
• 4 t coconut oil or grapeseed oil, divided
• 24 oz. paneer (you can make your own or purchase it from good grocery stores and/or Indian grocery stores: in Rochester, I recommend India House Food & Imports Store: http://www.indiahouse.com/StoreProducts/Store_Menu.htm)
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1" piece ginger, peeled and chopped
• 3 small green chilies
• 1 t curry  powder
• 2-3 t garam masala (like the paneer, this can be found at India House Food and Imports)
• 1 t cumin
• 1-2 c plain yogurt (preferably whole-milk yogurt: again, go to India House), as needed
• Salt, to taste
• 1/2 c chopped cilantro
• 1/2 c chopped parsley
• 1/2 c golden raisins, soaked in HOT water about 10 minutes to soften (optional)
• Cooked basmati or jasmine rice
• Naan bread (optional)

1. Steam the spinach quickly, just until soft and bright green. Drain and set aside.
2. Heat 1 teaspoon each of butter (or ghee) and oil over medium heat in a large, nonstick pan.Add half the paneer, frying until each square is browned on two or more sides, turning the paneer and shaking the pan occasionally: this will take about 10 minutes . Remove from pan, set aside, and repeat with the remaining paneer.
3. Wipe out the pan. Heat the remaining butter (or ghee). Add the onion and saute until nearly translucent. Add the ginger, garlic and chilies and saute until onions are completely soft and translucent, 3-5 minutes more.
4. Add the curry, garam masala, and cumin. Stir until fragrant, about 1 minute.
5. Add the cooked spinach to the pan, stirring until well-blended. Transfer mixture to a food processor and add enough yogurt to render the mixture creamy. Pulse until smooth, but not pureed.
6. Return to pan. Stir in paneer, cilantro, and parsley. Adjust salt and seasonings to taste. Heat gently until the paneer softens somewhat.
7. Serve over rice with naan bread. Sprinkle with softened golden raisins, if desired.

Vegan Chipotle Chili

I have been on a major comfort-food kick recently. I am guessing that this has something to do with a combination of factors, including (but not limited to): the colder weather, the shorter days, the general busy-ness of life, and the increasing frequency that I have been speaking out in the community.

Most of which are completely self-explanatory, except for perhaps the final one. That last factor is significant because, truth be told, I get nervous when speaking in front of a group of people. Don't get me wrong: I'm good at public speaking. I'd just rather do my collocating, exhortating, educating and illuminating through writing. I like to take my time with the words and thoughts, allowing them to come together in their own time. If I can do this quietly while at home, next to the wood-burning stove and with my cat Fauxgerty on my lap, so much the better.

But far be it from me to turn down an opportunity to present my experiences and knowledge to the world, especially when there is a chance that my experiences and knowledge offer some potential for healing in the world, knock on wood. 

As a result, I have facilitated discussions on how to encourage and develop trans-inclusive language, how to make effective public service announcement videos, and how to come to terms with one's gender identity, all within the last month. I have also been recently interviewed on multiple occasions by multiple media outlets on my experiences with bullying and surviving through struggles with depression (check out my previous "About Me" post to watch the video I made for the It Gets Better Project: http://transgustatory.blogspot.com/2010/10/it-gets-better-letter-to-myself-at-17.html).

I am, above all, grateful for these opportunities to encourage discussions on these very important topics: however, I also tend to get very stressed out and nervous during the preparation and delivery of any sort of public speaking situations.

And, as I have said before and said again, the energy we take into our bodies has a direct effect upon the energy we have to give to the world. So, given all the busy-ness and stress, when I have gotten cravings for homemade comfort foods, I haven't been holding back. And when it comes to chilly evenings, sometimes nothing beats a steaming bowl of spicy chili.

This is another failure-proof recipe. Use whatever veggies you want, as long as you use the same total volume that is called for in the recipe (if you decide to use spinach, be sure to cook it before you measure it! It cooks down a LOT). Also, for the most satisfying chili, be sure to leave the veggies in nice, big, hearty chunks.

There is one ingredient that may strike you by surprise: unsweetened chocolate. As I mention in the list of ingredients, vegans should be very mindful to select a vegan brand. Any 100% cocoa baking chocolate should be vegan, and is actually what I recommend most strongly: when you start getting into the 95% and under chocolates, you have to be sure to check what that other percentage consists of!

The chocolate melts completely into the broth, giving the finished chili a mole-like quality that is simply divine. Simply trust, and enjoy.

(A quick note to new new readers, which will also serve as a disclaimer for the photo below: no, I am not a vegan, hence the appearance of real sour cream and cheese on my bowl of chili. However, in my efforts to prepare foods with mindfully-selected ingredients, a large percentage of the foods I make are vegetarian and/or vegan. I hope that these recipes can be enjoyable to you, without there being any offense taken at the recipes that do include dairy, egg, and meat products....)

Vegan Chipotle Chili

• 2 T olive oil
• 1 c chopped onion (Spanish or Vidalia)
• 1 c chopped carrots
• 1 c chopped red bell pepper
• 1 c green or yellow bell pepper
• ½ of a head of garlic, chopped
• Approx. ½ of a 7-oz. can of chipotles in adobo sauce (to taste), pulsed in a food processor until finely chopped (VEGANS: this is almost always vegan, but read the ingredients just in case! If you can't find a brand that you are confident is vegan, just soak 2-3 dried chipotles in boiling water for 10-15 minutes, then dice.)
• 1 T chili powder
• 1 T ground cumin
• 2 T cider vinegar
• 10 whole black peppercorns, ground
• ¼-1/2 t ground allspice, to taste
• ¼-1/2 c ground cloves, to taste
• 2 large bay leaves
• 2 t salt, or to taste
• 2 t ground cinnamon
• Cayenne pepper to taste
• One 28-oz. can diced tomatoes
• Three 16-oz. cans beans (I recommend one each of black beans, pink beans, and cannellini beans)
• 1-3 c tomato juice
• 1 oz. unsweetened chocolate, chopped (VEGANS: be mindful of what brand you get to ascertain it is, in fact, vegan: this can be omitted if you have any doubts)
• 1 avocado, in bite-sized pieces (optional)
• coarsely chopped cilantro (optional)
• Sour cream (or vegan substitute, optional)
• Shredded cheddar cheese (or vegan substitute, optional)
• Cooked spaghetti (optional)

1. Heat the oil over medium heat in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pan. Add the onion and cook for about 5 minutes, until almost entirely translucent (but not quite). Add the carrots, bell peppers, and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the onions are golden, about 10 to 15 more minutes.
2. Add the chipotles, chili powder, cumin, vinegar, pepper, allspice, cloves, bay leaves, salt, cinnamon, and cayenne. Cook for two to five minutes, until fragrant.
3. Add the tomatoes, beans and 1 cup of the tomato juice. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir in the unsweetened chocolate. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding tomato juice as needed, until the flavors are fully blended, AT LEAST 45 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
4. Ladle into bowls (over cooked spaghetti, if you’d like: it’s yummy!) and serve with any combination of avocado, cilantro, sour cream and cheddar cheese that you desire.

Friday Night Lasagna

Who doesn't like lasagna? I honestly can't think of anyone. I know people who can't have it, due to diet choices, food allergies or a sensitivity to aged cheeses, but I don't know anyone who just plain doesn't like it.

I am calling this "Friday Night Lasagna" because, well, that's a good day to make this particular recipe. It's a bit too labor-intensive for most weekday nights, but uses sauce from a jar instead of homemade sauce (which is how I would prefer to make it if I had the greater time availability of weekends). 

Lasagna is another very forgiving recipe: as long as you keep the same basic volume of ingredients, there is a good deal of flexibility regarding what you can use. Don't like mushrooms? Use zucchini instead. Not a fan of spinach? Use a bell pepper. Think garlic and basil are gross? Well, actually, I can't help you with that one. That just baffles me. I suppose you could leave them out, but I can't really condone it.

It is important that you use the whole milk ricotta and mozzarella in this recipe, rather than the 2% or skim versions. The whole milk cheeses have a higher moisture content than the lower-fat versions, which helps to cook the noodles and blend the flavors, while preventing the final dish from being dried out. If you absolutely must use the lower-fat versions, add 1/2-3/4 cup water to the sauce: though this, of course, will dilute the flavors somewhat.

For a truly well-balanced meal, be sure to serve this with a salad or some steamed veggies: I served it along with a steamed Romanesco broccoli, which will be the topic of a later post.

There's really not much more to say regarding tips for this recipe. Make it, and enjoy!

Friday Night Lasagna

• 2-4 T olive oil, for sauteing
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 10 oz. mushrooms, thinly sliced
• 1/2 head of garlic, chopped
• 12 oz. baby spinach, very coarsely chopped
• 1/2 c coarsely chopped basil
• 24 oz. whole milk ricotta
• 1 egg, beaten
• 4 c shredded whole milk mozzarella, divided
• 1/2 c grated parmesan (plus more for sprinkling on top of lasagna when serving)
• 1/4 c chopped parsely
• 1-24 oz. jar Diavolo sauce (or other tomato sauce)
• 1-23.5 oz. jar Vodka sauce
• 1 box (9 oz.) no boil lasagna noodles

1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion and saute until soft and translucent. Add the mushrooms. Saute until the mushrooms release their juices and the moisture evaporates. Add the spinach and saute, stirring often, just until the spinach is cooked. Remove from heat, stir in the basil, and drain.
2. Combine the ricotta, egg, 2 cups of the mozzarella, 1/2 c parmesan, and the parsley.
3. Combine the sauces in a large saucepan and heat to a boil.Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
4. Layer in the following order in a deep 9" by 13" baking dish: 1-1/2 c sauce, 4 lasagna strips, 1/2 of the ricotta mixture, 1/2 of the veggie mixture, 1-1/2 c sauce, 4 lasagna strips, the rest of the ricotta, the rest of the veggies, 1-1/2 c sauce, 4 lasagna strips, and the remaining sauce. Top with the remaining 2 cups of mozzarella.
5. Cover the pan with aluminum foil. Bake on the center rack of the oven for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake approximately 15 more minutes, until the top is melted and golden brown. Let stand for 10 minutes before cutting.
6. Serve sprinkled with some extra parmesan, if desired. 

Salmon Turnover with Cucumber Sauce

I apologize for how much time has passed since my last post: I was down for almost 2 weeks with a bad case of bronchitis. I am now pretty much caught up to the speed of life now, but it took a while for me to be able to have the time to sit down and type up a post.

And actually, a couple of things happened as a result of the bronchitis that are pertinent here.

Firstly, I quit smoking. I finally just got fed up with all of the expense and the health consequences of smoking, and it has now been almost three weeks since my last cigarette. Go, me! Since then, I have really noticed the improvement of my senses of taste and smell. I can hardly believe it: cooking and eating are even more enjoyable to me than they were before.

Secondly, I had a lot of time to think as I was laying down, barely able to function, weary and sick with a head full of medicine: a long enough time, in fact, that I eventually got around to thinking about my priorities in life, whether I'm living up to my potential, and what I could stand to work on in order to be living the most authentic, healthy life possible. Blah, blah, blah.

Of all the things that occurred to me as I (literally feverishly) considered my life-in-general, one was the importance of being more financially responsible. I have committed to depositing  a percentage of each and every paycheck into an IRA (the account type, not the army type), just the way real grown-ups do. No excuses, no justifications.

And, in addition to not smoking, one of the ways that I am going to free up the funds to do so is to work to keep my food expenditures down: I spend a perhaps disturbingly high percentage of my income on yummy foodstuffs. I love yummy foodstuffs. However, I am going to be dedicating more mindfulness to feeding myself on healthy, yummy foods that are also economical.

This recipe is going to be the first in a series of recipes that I will make that require less than $20 in purchases from Wegmans. Every recipe that I am able to make for less than $20 will be tagged with "LessThan20."

Keep in mind that I have a fairly well-stocked kitchen, so I rarely have to purchase all of the ingredients in any given recipe. Also, these prices reflect their cost at the Wegmans stores in Rochester, NY. You may have to spend more than $20 on these recipes, depending on what you already have on-hand and the prices of items in the area where you live.

So, yeah, that's that. Now on to the recipe that is the real focus of this post...

This recipe is one that my Mom used to make sometimes, and it was always one of my favorites.It stands out in my mind as one of my favorite comfort foods. The buttery, flaky crunch of the crust; the heavenly fragrance and melty, delectable flavor of the filling; the cool smooth finish of the cucumber sauce that stands in perfect complement to the turnover... it's a pure delight to eat.

Sadly, many years have passed since the last time I was lucky enough to have this dish. I just never remembered to ask Mom for the recipe, and so memories of this dish have taunted me and left me in a perpetual unsatisfied void of craving. -heavy sigh-

Until earlier this week. I finally remembered to ask Mom if she could please send me the recipe for this delightful, satisfying, creamy, buttery, veggie-ful, beautiful entree with a tender, flaky crust. And, joy of joys, she found it and sent it my way.

I decided I had waited long enough, and that I just had to make it right away. So, within 24 hours of getting the recipe, I was at Wegman's grabbing all the ingredients that I needed to create the dish that had, for so long, been haunting me with its elusiveness. The only ingredients I had to purchase were the zucchini, parmesan, mushrooms, salmon and cucumber, for a total cost of $15.24. Huzzah!

Now, just a few helpful tips and tricks, and we can get right on to the recipe...

 You can used canned salmon if you are short on time, but it's so easy to grill salmon yourself that I recommend doing it. Just take the salmon steaks and score the skin by making several diagonal slashes approximately 1/4-inch thick. Coat the fish fairly liberally with olive oil, season lightly with salt and pepper, and place on a broiler pan with the skin side up. Broil 4-5 minutes per side, depending on the thickness of the fish.

(You could, of course, stop right there and serve the salmon next to whatever seasonal veggies you choose to and have a lovely meal. But, really, you should go ahead and make the turnover.)

Cut the zucchini into cubes about 1/2-3/4 inch per side. This is large enough that their color, flavor and texture stand out, but not so large that they cook unevenly and/or make the filling seem too lumpy.

Don't fill the turnover beyond its capacity, or the crust will rip and the Senate in your home state will be taken over by Republicans (wait: did that already happen? Sigh.). Seriously, though, put in as much filling as you can, but make sure you will still be able to fold the crust over and seal it without overtaxing the fragile dough. If you have some of the filling left over, do not worry: you can saute it for a bit to cook the egg that's in it and eat it on its own. In fact, have it with some of the cucumber sauce: this can be a helpful way to fine-tune the seasoning of the sauce as you aim towards the perfect balance of flavors.

I STRONGLY recommend using parchment paper for both the rolling out of the crust and for baking on. It is easier to roll our dough very thinly without it ripping or tearing when you use parchment paper, plus you can roll out the dough without adding additional flour (which can make the dough dry and tough. Blech.). It is beneficial for lining the baking pan, too, because you will easily be able to get the turnover from the pan to the serving plate or cutting board without damaging it. It is sad when, after working on a pastry-wrapped goody for a good chunk of time, the pastry surrounding the filling cracks into pieces. The result of such drama is usually a messy, funny-looking pile-o-gook which, while tasty, is harder to serve and sadder to look at.

Regarding cucumbers: they are more than 90% water by weight. Thassa lotta water. And, when using them in sauces or salads, it is enough water to cause some undesired consequences: sauces can get too thin, salads can get wilted and spoiled prematurely. As a result, when I use cucumbers in sauces or salads, I always de-seed them first. This is insanely easy: just cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and, using a teaspoon, simply scoop out the seeds. The center membrane and seeds contain the runniest of the cuke's water weight, and so this one step can help keep your sauces the proper texture and your salads fresh and crisp for a longer time.

Don't be shy with either the sesame seeds or the sauce. They take the turnover and transform it from yummy to positively delicious.

And that's it! In case you haven't caught on by now, I really like this recipe, and I hope you will, too! Enjoy.

Salmon Turnover with Cucumber Sauce

• 2-3 T butter or olive oil
• 1/2 c chopped onion
• 1 small yellow zucchini, in smallish bite-sized cubes
• 1 small green zucchini, in smallish bite-sized cubes
• 4 oz. mushrooms, sliced and coarsely chopped
• 1T flour
• 1/2 t dried marjoram 
• 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, leaves only
• 1/4 c milk or half and half
• 1 pound grilled salmon, cooled and flaked
• 1/4-1/2 c grated parmesan
• salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 egg
• sesame seeds
• 1 recipe pie crust (below)
• 1 recipe cucumber sauce (recipe below)

1. Saute the onion in the oil or butter until it is translucent. Add the zucchini and saute 2-3 more minutes before adding the mushrooms.
2. Add the flour, mix well, and continue cooking for a few minutes. Add the herbs and stir gently for a few more minutes before slowly adding the milk or half-and-half. Cook until smooth, fragrant and bubbly. 
3. Stir in the salmon and the parmesan. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.
4. Beat the egg. Add half to the filling and set the rest aside. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
5. Allow the filling to cool while you make the pie crust (recipe below). Form the dough into a ball and place between two sheets of parchment paper. Roll the dough into a circle with a diameter of at least 13 inches: it will be thin and fragile.Transfer the circle of dough onto a parchment paper-lined cookie sheet or pizza stone.
6. Spoon the filling onto one half of the rolled dough, leaving a border approximately 1/2 inch deep around the edge. Be mindful to put in as much of the filling as will fit, but no more. Fold the other half of the dough over the filling and seal the edges. 
7. Cut a few slits into the top of the pastry, brush the dough with the remaining beaten egg, and sprinkle liberally with sesame seeds.
8. Bake 25-35 minutes, until golden brown. Serve with cucumber sauce (recipe below).

Pie crust: 

• 6 T cold butter, cut into small pieces
• 1 1/2 c flour
• 1/4 t salt
• 4-5 T cold water or milk (more or less)

1. Using a pastry cutter or a food processor, cut together the butter pieces and the flour until they are the consistency of rough cornmeal. Add salt.
2. Stirring with a fork (or leaving the food processor running on low), add the liquid 1 T at a time until the dough sticks to itself: stop adding liquid as soon as the dough holds together. The natural fluxuations in humidity will affect the amount of liquid that you will need to use.
3. Wrap the dough well in plastic wrap and chill for about 45 minutes before rolling it out.

Cucumber Sauce:

• 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and shredded
• 1/2 c sour cream
• 1/2 c mayonnaise
• 1 T rice vinegar
• salt and pepper to taste

1. Drain the shredded cucumber for a few minutes to get rid of some of the extra water.
2. Gently mix all the ingredients together. Fine-tune the vinegar, salt and pepper to your taste. That's it!

Minestrone, with infinite optional variations (including vegan options)

I have been sick the last several days. It has been sad. I have been unable to cook for days, which pretty much breaks my heart. :-(

There are only two up-sides to this experience, as far as I can tell. The first is that the prescription cough syrup my doctor prescribed to me makes it feel as though the world is covered in a very fine fuzz: it also basically ascertains that this post will be shorter and less articulate than it normally would be. Please forgive any typos you  find...

The second is that I could feel the sickness coming on, and so I decided on Friday to make a big pot of soup. Sick or not, autumn is a great time of year for soups.

So, here's the thing: this is a very forgiving soup. As long as you use the same volume of veggies and herbs that the recipe calls for, feel free to experiment. Some people like it with cabbage instead of squash, or eggplant instead of potatoes, marjoram instead of thyme, etc.etc. You can leave out the mushrooms and double the potatoes. Just be sure to make the chunks of veggies big enough that they don't just fall apart.

Feel free to make this without either the bacon or pancetta, with an extra can of beans, and with vegetable broth for a sublime vegan dish. Or to double the amount of bacon or pancetta for a meatier soup experience. Or to go all fancy-schmancy and use uncured duck bacon, available at your friendly neighborhood Wegmans. Whatever you want. Have fun.

Also, stir the soup gently and lovingly, especially as it gets closer to being done. My dear friend Dana, who was head cook at the Zen Center when I lived there, used to warn me about my tendency to create a perfect dish, delicious and beautiful... until the last few minutes before serving time: if I felt hurried, or if I was adjusting the seasoning levels and getting frustrated if they weren't coming together just how I wanted, then I would start stirring less and less gently, breaking the hearty chunks into pieces. This can happen especially easily when you are making a dish with a high water content, such as a soup or a stew. On one memorable occasion, I was supposed to be making a thick, chunky groundnut stew, but I ended up with a monochromatic vat of texture-less puree.

Dana would look at me when this happens and say, "When you learn how to be gentler with your food, you will know how to be gentler on yourself. Be patient. It will come together."

Minestrone

• 2-3 T olive oil
• 4 oz. bacon or pancetta (OPTIONAL)
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 large leek, sliced (check out my post on Chicken Divan for info on preparing leeks)
• 3 carrots, peeled and chopped in thick slices
• 2 celery ribs,chopped coarsely
• 6 oz. wild mushrooms, very coarsely chopped
• 2 potatoes, washed and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 squash or 1 eggplant
• 6 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2    14-oz. cans diced tomatoes
• 8-10 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth, heated to a simmer
• 1-2 t fresh thyme leaves, coarsely chopped
• 2-3 t fresh rosemary, chopped
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/4 c (packed) Italian parsley leaves, chopped
• 3 T pesto sauce 
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1    15.5 oz. can cannellini beans
• 4 oz. orzo, gemelli, or other small-sized pasta

1. Heat the oil in a large stock pot (the capacity should be at least 6.5L) over medium-high heat. Stir in the onion and the leek: reduce heat to medium and cook for 5-10 minutes until the onion is completely translucent.
2. Add the carrots and celery: cook, stirring occasionally, 3-4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook 2-3 minutes. Add the potatoes, squash and garlic and cook until the vegetables are tender (but not quite fully cooked), about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and stir gently to combine: heat until bubbly.
3. Pour in the hot broth and stir well (start off with only 8 c of the broth: you can add more later if it's needed). Add the herbs and pesto:  season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer (partly covered) 30 minutes.
4. Add the beans and bring the mixture back to a simmer. Add the pasta: continue simmering 10-20 minutes until the pasta is al dente.
5. If desired, sprinkle each serving with grated asiago, romano, or parmesan and serve with hot buttered bread.

It Gets Better: A Letter to Myself at 17 Years Old.

Sweet Potato Burgers

So, many of Transgustatory's fans on its Facebook page have requested recipes that use sweet potatoes. This makes perfect sense to me: they are colorful, chock-full of flavor, incredibly healthy, and available year-round (though their peak growing season is during fall and winter). They are unbelievably rich in vitamin A (over 700% of the RDA per serving!), and also good sources of vitamin C, vitamin B6, niacin and fiber. Given the fact that so many fruits and vegetables that are rich in vitamins A and C go out of season this time of year, it makes perfect sense to have them frequently through the colder months.

There really is no need to give hints and suggestions for this recipe, as it is simple to make and impossible to mess up. All of the seasonings can be adjusted to taste: feel free to start off with less than the recipe calls for, and then increase until the flavor makes you smile and sigh a little.

For instance, this recipe was passed on to me by my friend and fellow activist Anne. Anne does not like cilantro, and doesn't like the flavor of ginger (and other spices) to be too intense. I however, could probably dine on salads made solely from cilantro and ginger quite happily for some time. So, while she substitutes parsley for the cilantro and uses closer to 1 tablespoon minced ginger, I was more than a little generous with both of these ingredients. I also have a rare reading complication that causes me to read "cloves garlic" as if it were "heads garlic." Don't ask me how much I put in. It was a lot.

So, play it by ear (or tongue), and make them so they are as mild or spunky as you prefer.

One thing: if you do decide to substitute parsley for the cilantro, make sure you use the flat-leaf Italian parsley and NOT the curly parsley. Curly parsley has an evil, magical ability to take away the flavor of anything it touches. Avoid it as if it was your most evil ex. Using it will basically turn anything you make into a boring dish only suitable for consumption by fundamentalist Republicans. Don't do it.

Sweet Potato Burgers

• 2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 inch cubes
• 1 1/4 c quick-cooking rolled oats
• 3/4 c minced red onion
• 3/4 c chopped peanuts, soy nuts or cashews
• 3/4 c chopped cilantro OR 1 c chopped Italian parsley
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1-3 T minced fresh ginger, to taste
• 1 1/2 t cumin
• 1 t salt
• Peanut oil (for frying)
• Sesame seed rolls (VEGANS: be sure to make sure to check with the bakery regarding the ingredients!)

Garnishes

• 1 cucumber, peeled and sliced thinly
• 1 tomato, sliced
• 1 avocado, sliced
• Thinly sliced red onion 
• Tamarind chutney (VEGANS: be mindful of the ingredients in the chutney!)

1.  Put the prepared sweet potato cubes in 1/2 galon boiling vegetable broth. Boil until soft, 10-20 minutes. Drain and mash until smooth.
2. Mix all the ingredients (except for the oil, rolls and garnishes) together and form into 1/2-inch thick patties the size and shape of the rolls you are using. 
3. Preheat oven to 200-250 degrees F. Wrap the rolls in aluminum foil and allow to warm while the burgers are cooking.
4. Preheat a skillet over medium/medium-high heat, or preheat an electric skillet to 325 degrees F. Add 1-2 T peanut oil and heat until the oil is to temperature.
5. Fry until crisp and deep golden brown, turning once: be gentle with the patties, so they don't break apart!
6. Serve on warmed rolls, garnished with cucumber, tomato, avocado, red onion and chutney.

Poppy Seed Cake

When my sister Diana and I were kids, there was one cake that we, almost without exception, always requested for our birthday cake: poppy seed cake. This was THE cake. The flavor, the texture, were just head-and-shoulders above the rest.

Now, given the fact that Diana's and my birthdays were only 10 days apart, we had an awful lot of this cake for a very delicious two weeks every October. Which may or may not be part of why I have such a deep affinity and preference for autumn. Autumn=yummy cake. If you think that's not a good reason to settle upon a favorite season, then, well, you probably haven't had this cake.

As you know if you read the past posts on this blog, I just recently celebrated my 30th birthday. So, for old-time's sake, I whipped up this favorite cake from my childhood.

This may seem like an odd favorite cake for young kids to have. There is no frosting. It is not technicolor. It has poppy seeds, an ingredient most commonly used by hippies and bagel-makers. This is a well-grounded, unpretentious cake. It is what it is, and doesn't go on putting on airs. It's a nutty, sweet, delicious, neutral-toned delicacy. It's kinda the butch dyke of the cake world.

And, as cakes go, there aren't many tips and suggestions that I need to give about this cake.

However, it is important to have all the ingredients at room temperature before you start preparing the batter. But, since this is true for all cake recipes, it's not terribly surprising. The kitchen-standby The Joy of Cooking tells us why this is important:

"In general, before starting to bake, all ingredients should be at room temperature (68 to 70 degrees F). This is especially important with butter cake recipes, where the butter, liquid and eggs are intended to form an emulsion during the mixing steps. Emulsions can break or curdle (like a sauce) if some ingredients are colder than the others. When this happens, the batter loses its ability to trap air, and the cake will be heavy.

"Butter should still be cool-- from 60 to 70 degrees F-- but malleable when squeezed, not soft and squishy. Butter that is too soft or melted will not trap air and the batter and collapse with prolonged beating. [Which, truth be told, is true for most of us...]

"Cold eggs do not increase in volume when beaten as much as room-temperature or warm eggs, and when they are too cold, they won't blend smoothly into batters...."

So now you know.

Also, be an obsessive-compulsive freak when it comes to separating the eggs. I normally do not endorse up-tightness, but in this case, I make an exception. If you get any-- and I mean any-- of the yolk into the whites, they will not get all fluffy, happy, and joyous, and you will end up with a poppy seed brick.

On that note: it is also very important that you fold the egg whites in gently, or else... you've got it... poppy seed brick. Rather than go into a wordy, confusing description, I suggest that you watch this video if you have any doubts about the best way to fold: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP4vbktd-PM&feature=related. (I apologize for the cheesy music and annoying voice: but, after watching several online videos regarding how to fold egg whites, this really was the best I found, instructionally speaking. Maybe someday I'll make my own, complete with background music from The Cliks and a few choice vulgarities, but for now, this will have to do.)

The only other suggestion I have to make is to not over-do the cinnamon sprinkle on the top of the cake, or it will get too dark before the cake is fully baked. It will still be delicious, it just won't be as aesthetically pleasing.

This recipe is an adaptation of a recipe from Sunset magazine that appeared over 20 years ago. Enjoy!

Poppy Seed Cake

• 1/2 lb. (2 sticks) butter, at room temperature
• 2 1/2 c unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 can (12.5 oz.) poppy seed pie filling
• 1 c buttermilk
• 1 T almond extract
• 4 extra-large eggs, separated
• 1 1/2 c sugar, divided
• 1 t baking powder
• 1 t baking soda
• 1/2 t salt
• 1 T cinnamon

1. Butter and flour-dust a 10-inch decorative tube pan or 9-inch springform pan.
2. In a small bowl, mix poppy seed filling, buttermilk, and almond extract.
3. In a deep bowl, beat egg whites with a mixer on high until foamy. Continue beating and gradually add 1/4 cup of the sugar. Beat until whites hold stiff, shiny peaks.
4. In another bowl, using unwashed beaters, beat 1 cup butter and 1 cup of the sugar on high speed until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks and beat until well blended. Stir in poppy seed mixture.
5. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
6. Add dry ingredients to batter; beat slowly to blend. Mix at medium speed.
7. Fold in beaten whites until blended.
8. Mix 1/4 cup of the sugar and the cinnamon. Pour half the batter into pan. Sprinkle with 2/3 of the cinnamon mixture. Add remaining batter and sprinkle with remaining cinnamon mixture. If you are using a tube pan, hold a knife vertically and draw the blade through batter around tube: this is not necessary if you are using a springform pan.
9. Bake in 350° oven just until cake springs back when lightly pressed in center, 1 to 1 1/4 hours.
10. Cool in pan 15 minutes. Invert cake onto a plate (or remove the outer piece of the springform pan). Serve warm or cool.

Kalamata Olive and Asiago Crostini

These were the other canapes I made for my birthday get-together.

There's not really much to say about these delightful treats, except that they are delicious and ridiculously easy to make.

One thing: there is an easy way to skin and seed a tomato. Simply immerse it in boiling water for approximately one minute, then place it in a bowl of ice water. This will cause the skin to pucker so that it peels off easily. The tomato can then be cut in half, and the seeds easily removed with your fingers. It feels gross and squishy and cool.

If you are vegan, just omit the asiago: there's so much flavor to these little goodies that they will still be wonderful. If you eat dairy, but can't eat aged cheeses, just substitute crumbled, un-aged feta or goat cheese.

And that's all I have to say about that.

Kalamata Olive and Asiago Crostini

• 1/2 loaf French bread, sliced 1/4" thick
• 50 fresh basil leaves, chopped
• 1 large tomato, skinned, seeded and chopped finely
• 1 T finely chopped garlic, or to taste
• 15 Kalamata olives,pitted and chopped
• 2-3 oz. grated asiago (or fresh goat cheese, or omit)

1. If the bread is not pre-sliced, slice it to 1/4" thick.
2. Combine the remaining ingredients and mix well.
3. Spread 1/2 T of the mixture on each slice of bread. Place under the broiler (on a broiler pan that has been lightly coated with olive oil) until hot and the cheese is melted, approximately 2 minutes.
4. Garnish with fresh basil leaves or a few pieces of asiago, if  desired.

Crab Rangoon with Apricot Sauce

I really, really love crab rangoon. My love for the creamy center and crispy outer shell, brought to a peak on my tongue by the sweetness of the sauce, have led to more than one late-night take-out call from my residences through the years. Mmmmmm, crab rangoon.... (insert Homer-Simpsonesque gurgly drooling sound here)

Given the downright indecent degree to which I enjoy these fried treats, it is not big surprise that I decided that they should be one of the tasty snackity canapes available to my tastebuds over this last weekend... After all, you only turn 30 a maximum of once per lifetime, so why not make it special?

(Incidentally, my boo and I discovered that the most amusing way to say "canapes" is to pretend you're saying "can of peas" with a drawl. Don't scoff. Try it. I defy you to not giggle a little.)

It is probably to the unfortunate long-term detriment to my cholesterol levels that I discovered how fun and easy these are to make, and how much better the sauce is when it's made at home.

Ooh, and speaking of the sauce... if you have some left over, may I suggest you try a bit on Stonewall Kitchen's Roasted Garlic Crackers with a schmear of fresh goat cheese? So gooooooood!

Also, if you have some of the filling left over after you've filled the wontons, it's pretty amazing as an omelet filling, along with some cream cheese and sliced scallions.

With all that said, a few hints and suggestions:

I splurged on real creab-meat for my birthday, and it really is infinitely superior in flavor to the ones made with artificial crab. With that said, there are few meats more expensive (and less sustainably harvested) meats, and there is a difference of $20+ per pound between the real and the artificial crab. Get the real if you can, but do what you must: I will be honest, I will probably make it with the artificial crab sometimes.

If you do go with real crab, there is no reason to get the more expensive large-lump crab: you'll just be breaking the lumps down, so it's actually kinda silly to do so.

Don't skip the step where you chill the wontons between the two fryings, even if you are planning on serving them immediately. Cooling them down helps to ascertain that the filling doesn't overheat and leak out of the wrappers.

Regarding the oil: I suggest using at least 25% peanut oil, instead of just canola. This will really enhance the flavor of the crispy outer-layer.

You will never fry more than three at a time, because the fry time is so short. If you have a deep-fat fryer, great. If not, you can just use a medium-sized saucepan for the oil: you don't need to use a large pan.

Make sure the fat is hot enough before you start frying, or you will end up with floppy, flaccid, unappetizing canapes. No one loves a flaccid canape. It is, of course, optimal if you have a deep-fat thermometer. If you don't, scatter in a few drops of water from your fingertips into the oil. If it really comes to life, popping like Rice krispies' evil big brother, then you may begin.

These can be prepared in advance, and then kept in the refrigerator until you are ready for the second-fry: we didn't eat them all the first night I made them, and so I was able to enjoy some, fresh and hot and crispy, the next day. And I was happy.

Crab Rangoon with  Apricot Sauce

• 1 lb. cream cheese, softened
• 1 lb. crab meat (separated into small pieces if in chunks)
• 2 t garlic, chopped
• 2 oz. scallions, sliced
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• Worcestershire sauce to taste
• sesame oil to taste
• 48 wonton skins

For the sauce:

• 12 oz. apricot preserves (preferably one with no corn syrup in it, and of course locally-made is usually better)
• 1 T + 2 t fresh ginger, grated (or to taste: I love the taste of ginger, so I really put it in there)
• 1 1/2 t dry mustard
• 2 T red wine vinegar

1. Place the cream cheese in the bowl of a mixer and mix until soft.
2. Add the crab meat, garlic and green onions. Season with salt and pepper, Worcestershire sauce (about 1 t) and sesame oil (about 2-3 t).
3. Place several wonton skins on a work surface. Brush the edges with water. Place approximately 1 T of the cream cheese mixture in the center of each skin (after you do a few, you will get a sense of just how much to add for them to be full, but not too full to seal). Fold the wonton skin in half and seal the edges.
4. Deep-fry the wontonsat 350 degrees F, one at a time, for 10 seconds. Remove with a pair of cooking tongs, drain well, and refrigerate until cooled or until you are ready to serve.
5. At serving time, deep-fry the wontons at 350 degrees F, three at a time, until crisp, approximately 1 minute. Serve with Apricot sauce.

 To make the sauce:

1. Combine all the ingredients in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat until the preserves melt and the flavors blend. Best hot or at room temperature.

Spinach, Mushroom, Kalamata and Roasted Pepper White Pizza on a Parmesan Crust

 So, today is my birthday. I have been making a lot of yummy foods to enjoy over the weekend, which means I am behind in my posts. This recipe and some of the ones soon to follow may included slightly less commentary, just until I get caught up: however, I promise to continue including helpful hints and suggestions that will ensure delectable results.

Most parts of this recipe are pretty self-explanatory from the instructions, but I do have just a few things to add.

Do be mindful of the temperature of the water you use to proof the yeast. If it is not warm enough, it will not fully activate the yeast, but if it is too hot, it can kill the yeast. Either will prevent you from having a successful crust. Make sure the water feels very warm, but not hot, when dripped on your inner wrist. 

If, for whatever reason, the yeast does not get frothy during the first step when it is proofed with the water and honey, simply discard and start over. If it won't rise, it's not worth taking the time to prepare...

Two essential preparations that need to be done for this pizza to be possible are the roasting of the garlic and the roasting of the bell peppers.

For the roasting of the bell peppers, well, I hope you have a gas stove. I try to avoid living anywhere with an electric stove, and roasting bell peppers is part of the reason why. Just turn a burner on, and rest a washed bell pepper over the flame, turning with cooking tongs ever minute or so, until it is completely charred. Place the charred pepper in a plastic bag to sweat for a few minutes, then remove the burnt skin and seeds and rinse under running water.

To roast the garlic, preheat your oven to 350 degrees F. Remove the uppermost quarter of the heads of garlic, rub the heads with olive oil, and wrap in aluminum foil. Place on a baking sheet or in a muffin tin and bake until the cloves are soft and golden, approximately 35-45 minutes. Remove the garlic from the oven and allow to cool just enough to handle the heads. Carefully remove each clove of garlic head by gently squeezing from the base of the head (this isn't as kinky as it sounds, really).


Free feel to change the pizza toppings based on your preferences and what is seasonal. Just be sure to consider the overall balance of flavor and texture.

Spinach, Mushroom, Kalamata and Roasted Pepper White Pizza

• 1 c whole milk
• 4 T salted butter
• 2 T all-purpose flour
• 1/4 t salt
• 1/4 t cayenne pepper
• 3 to 4 heads roasted garlic
• 2-3 T yellow cornmeal
• 1 recipe Parmesan Pizza Dough (recipe follows)
• 6 oz baby spinach, washed, rinsed and sauteed
• 8 oz. mushrooms, washed, rinsed and sliced
• 10-15 kalamata olives, pitted and cut in half
• 2 roasted red peppers, sliced into thin strips
• 8 oz. fresh mozzarella, sliced
• 4 oz. feta, crumbled
• 2 T chopped fresh basil leaves
• 2 T chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

1. Gently heat milk in a small saucepan, just until barely simmering. Remove and keep covered.
2. In a separate saucepan, melt butter over low heat. Add flour and stir until smooth. Cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring: do not allow the flour to brown. Gradually add the warm milk, whisking to combine. Add the salt and cayenne; increase heat to medium. Cook the mixture, whisking continuously, until the sauce comes to a boil and is thickened. Remove from heat. 
3. Add 15 of the garlic cloves to the sauce. Pour the mixture into a blender or food processor, cover, and process until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl and cool slightly. 
4. Place a pizza stone in the oven (if you have one) and preheat to 500 degrees F. 
5. Sprinkle about 2 T of the yellow cornmeal on a baking sheet or 15-inch-pizza pan. Place the rolled out pizza dough on the prepared baking sheet.
6. Spread the cooled sauce over the dough, leaving a 3/4-inch border. Distribute the spinach, mushrooms, kalamatas, and roasted red pepper strips over the sauce. Place sliced mozzarella over the toppings, then sprinkle the remaining roasted garlic cloves over the cheese and top with the feta.
7. Bake the pizza for 8-15 minutes, until the crust is golden and the cheese is melted, bubbly and golden brown in spots.
8. Remove from the oven and sprinkle the chopped herbs over the top. Serve immediately. 

Parmesan Pizza Dough

•  1 c warm water (105-115 degrees F)
• 1 envelope active dry yeast
• 1 t honey
• 2 T extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 2 1/4- 2 3/4 c unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 c finely grated parmesan
• pinch salt

1. In a large bowl, combine the water, yeast, honey and 1 T oil, stirring to combine. Let sit until the mixture is foamy, about 5 minutes. 
2. Add 1 1/2 c of the flour, the parmesan and the salt, mixing by hand until it is all incorporated and the mixture is smooth. 
3. Continue adding the flour, 1/4 cup at a time, working the dough after each addition until the dough is smooth but still slightly sticky. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth but slightly tacky to the touch, 3 to 5 minutes.
4. Oil a large mixing bowl with the remaining oil. Place the dough in the bowl, turning to coat. Cover with a warm, moist towel and set in a warm place until doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
5. Punch dough dough, turn out onto a lightly floured surface and roll into a 9 by 13 inch rectangle or a 15-inch circle, depending on the shape of pan you are using. 

The Best Damn Focaccia Recipe Ever.

In my recent post on how to make Chicken Divan, I mentioned a book called On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals by Labensky, Hause and Martel. I love this book. Just flipping through it's smooth pages can calm me on a stressful day. I wish this book wasn't so pointy at the corners, so I could hug it more comfortably. I love this book.

I received the fifth edition of On Cooking as a Christmas present from my dad last year. Which is good, because as a rule I cannot afford cookbooks that cost $100+. This isn't just a cookbook, after all: this is used as a textbook in almost all culinary schools in English-speaking countries. On Cooking doesn't just give you an enumeration of recipes: it gives detailed, important information about ingredients and cooking techniques that goes about five steps further towards true intimacy with the food than the average cookbook even attempts to impart.

Now, here's the thing: my friend Amy requested that I make a post about "focaccia that doesn't resemble a big crouton." Here's the other thing: although I have enjoyed good focaccia on many occasions, I've never actually made it before. So here's the result: I consulted On Cooking, to see if it had a recipe for focaccia. And, joy of joys, it did!

I made this recipe last night, and it turned out just perfectly. Dense, but still oh so flavorful, soft, tender and moist.

Here are the few tips I have for this recipe:

Don't be put off by the inclusion of onion. As long as you mince the onion very finely, you won't end up with noticeable chunks of onion in the finished focaccia. The onion just adds a richer flavor, and releases just enough moisture into the dough during the baking process to prevent crouton-like results. (Now you know the secret, Amy!)

Also, don't use too much onion. If you don't have a kitchen scale, weigh the onion at the grocery store and select one just slightly under 1/4 pound.

Do add the flour 1/4 cup at a time, as the recipe suggests. This may seem tedious, but it will help to develop the gluten in the flour, which is helpful since focaccia isn't kneaded for as long of a time as most other yeast breads.

Also, you will have to use your judgment regarding how much flour to add: the air was so humid yesterday that I had to use significantly more than the recipe called for. With that said, this will be a MUCH softer dough than most bread doughs: the finished dough should be somewhere in-between the consistency of cake batter and the consistency of cookie dough. Start kneading the flour into the dough as soon as you can: it will still be sticky, and some will get stuck on the kneading surface and your hands. Deal with it. It's a sacrifice you make to have soft, tasty treats instead of dry rosemary-flavored dog biscuits.

Use Kosher salt: do not substitute finely-ground table salt. Just trust me on this.

And that's about it. I included the very few minor adjustments that I made to the recipe, but the recipes in this book are always so good that there aren't many of them.

Focaccia (Roman Flatbread)

• 1 T honey (vegans can substitute sugar or agave nectar)
• 1 T active dry yeast
• 1 1/2 c lukewarm water
• between 2 1/4 c and 3 1/4 c flour
• 2 t Kosher salt, divided
• 3 oz. onion, very finely chopped
• 1-2 T olive oil
• 2 T fresh rosemary, crushed and very coarsely chopped

1. Combine the honey, yeast and water. Stir to dissolve the yeast. Stir in the flour 1/4 cup at a time: keep in mind that you will add 1/4-1/2 cup more flour to the dough during the kneading process, so stop as soon as you have a soft dough that is just barely firm enough to be kneaded.
2. Stir in 1 1/2 t of the salt and the onion. Mix well, then knead on a lightly floured surface until very smooth.
3. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, turning the dough over once so the top is also lightly coated with oil. Cover with a warm, moist towel and allow to sit until doubled in bulk.
4. Punch down the dough, then flatten it onto a parchment paper-lined sheet pan. It should be no more than 1 inch thick. Brush the top of the dough with the olive oil. Let the dough proof until doubled, 15-30 minutes.
5. Sprinkle the rosemary and remaining salt on top of the dough. Bake at 400 degrees F until lightly browned, 20-30 minutes.

Just Tea.

As I told you in an earlier post, I lived at a Zen Center for a good while. During that time, I drank a lot of tea. A lot of it. And, since I worked in the kitchen, I made a lot of tea. Usually a total of one to two gallons a day: more during meditation retreats.

Just tea. Simple, unadorned, unsweetened, unflavored tea. And I hope it doesn't sound wishy-washy when I say that I learned a lot about how to approach life from tea.

Tea is attention. It is not through the ingredients-- water and tea leaves-- that tea is made, but by the careful attention to details and awareness of responding at the right moment of the tea-maker. The tea will reflect the mind of the maker: if the tea-maker is worried and agitated, it will be weak; if they are distracted and absent, it will be bitter; if they are present, it will be refreshing and light.

Okakura Kakuzo wrote in The Book of Tea that "The Philosophy of Tea is not mere aestheticism in the ordinary acceptance of the term, for it expresses conjointly with ethics and religion our whole point of view about man and nature. It is hygiene, for it enforces cleanliness; it is economics, for it shows comfort in simplicity rather than in the complex and costly; it is moral geometry, inasmuch as it defines our sense of proportion to the universe."

My fiance/fiancee knows how much I love tea, and how much I value the process of tea-making. There is no condition of the bodymind that can't be brought into greater equilibrium with a good cup of tea. I honestly believe that.

And so it was with great delight that I unwrapped an early birthday present that Lee got for my upcoming 30th birthday: a beautiful teapot, with two cups reminiscent of the cups the Zen Center uses during meditation retreats. I cried a few tears of loving gratitude when I opened it, and I'm not too proud to say so.

As a result, I have been making a lot of tea today. A lot. And it occurred to me that a post on "Just Tea" would be well-advised.

One of the most important variables in the making of the perfect cup of tea is the temperature of the water. In The Book of Tea, Kakuzo describes the three stages of boiling: "the first boil is when the little bubbles, like the eyes of fishes, swim on the surface; the second boil is when the bubbles are like crystal beads rolling in a fountain; the third boil is when the billows surge wildly in the kettle."

As poetic and accurate as those descriptions are, I decided it might not be a bad idea to post images of each of the three boils: keep in mind that is is impossible to actually capture the movement of water in a still photograph, but with close attention to the water as it reaches a simmer will help you catch it at just the right moment. Trust yourself, and learn from the results you get: if your tea is weak, you stopped the water too soon, but if it is bitter, you let the water get too hot.

First boil: see how the bubbles look kinda like fish eyes around the edges?

Second boil

Third boil: see how the steam billows wildly in the kettle?

For green and oolong teas, only bring the water to first boil; for black and herbal teas, bring the water to second boil. Third boil is too hot for the tender tea leaves.

For the best tea, do not let the water come to a full boil, and then cool down until it is at the right boil level. This will deplete the water, and the tea will not feel as smooth and soft on the tongue.

It also is important to use loose-leaf tea, rather than bagged. Allow the leaves room to unfurl, just loose in the pot, then strain the tea into cups.

It is preferable to use well-filtered water. Do what you can on this, without going so far as to buy disposable containers full of water. I strongly suggest getting a good filter on your kitchen faucet, but if the cost is prohibitive, just do what you can with a less-expensive water filtration pitcher.

For 4-6 cups of water, use one heaping tablespoon of loose tea leaves; for 8-12 cups, use two heaping tablespoons.

Green teas should steep 3 1/2 minutes for optimal flavor. Oolong teas should steep around 4 minutes, black teas for 4 1/2, and herbal teas for      4 1/2-5 minutes. Matcha teas only need 30 seconds to 1 1/2 minutes. Understeeping will result in a flavorless tea, while oversteeping will lead to a bitter tea that leaves the tongue and mouth feeling dry, instead of refreshed.

As you can now see, so much comes down to full attention to each moment, and an intimate understanding of the tea you are using.

I encourage you all to take up tea-making. Developing the skill of brewing the perfect cup of tea will not only benefit you with the delicious, invigorating refreshment of a steaming cup of peace, but it will also (potentially) develop a greater sense of attentiveness and sensitivity in how you see the world.

Think it's hyperbole? Try it out. Make some tea every day for a week or two, then try to tell me you don't feel a bit better.

Chicken Divan (with bonus recipe for Honey-Mustard Vinaigrette)

This was one of those weekends that just didn't feel like a weekend. I have had one commitment after another, which continued until I got to a point where my bodymind pretty much just shut down. We've had leftovers for dinner the last two nights, just out of necessity.

Now, don't get me wrong: I don't mind leftovers, especially when the food that is leftover is delicious and homemade. But you can only have leftovers for so long until-- well, until there's no food that's leftover. And, of course, Lee returned to Buffalo today for hir next week of law school, and I like to make sure ze has some good food to take along with hir. These factors meant that, tired or not, I had to cook dinner yesterday night.

I decided the best bet was to take it a little easy on myself and make a casserole. Casseroles can be a beautiful, simple and delicious way to get a balanced meal. I made this casserole yesterday, and served it alongside a salad made with baby greens, dried cranberries, home-grown cherry tomatoes and a honey-mustard vinaigrette (recipe also in this post) and some warmed  whole-grain bread with garlic butter.

This recipe is also posted with my good friend and dharma sister Reaunna in mind. You see, Reaunna recently posted a request on Transgustatory's Facebook page that I put up a recipe for "a casserole that doesn't involve green beans or cream of mushroom soup." How can I resist such an amusingly specific request? (Especially since I had more than enough green bean casserole growing up. It was kind of a staple in some family members' homes. Don't judge: I lived in the Midwest.)

Now, many recipes for chicken divan that you will find nowadays DO call for canned cream of mushroom soup. A disheartening number of them, in fact: I looked up a good two dozen different recipes for it when Lee requested that I make Chicken Divan for us, and the vast majority called for cream of mushroom soup. What follows is my amalgamation of the best parts of all of them, with a laudatory absence of condensed soup products.

One of the ingredients in this recipe is leeks. Leeks are wonderful. According to my prized cookbook On Cooking by Sarah Labensky, Alan Hause and Priscilla Martel (thanks, Dad, for supporting my love of cooking with this indulgent cookbook that I never could have afforded!), "their flavor is sweeter and stronger than scallions, but milder than common bulb onions." This makes them optimal for adding some richness and flavor to dishes made with a white sauce.

Their peak season is from fall to early spring, but they can be grown in many regions year-round. One thing to keep in mind when preparing them is to cut them in half lengthwise and rinse out the gritty dirt between the layers. A bite full of grit will ruin an otherwise perfect dish.

Also, you can use some of the green part of the leek, but the tough, dark-green top should be cut off. The dark-green parts can be used to make stocks (as they are in this recipe), but shouldn't be chopped up and used in the dish itself. They are too tough. Who wants hard-to-chew, grassy onion gum? That's right: no one.

Another hint in the best interest of the dish: if the broccoli stalks are stringy or tough, go ahead and peel off the tough outer layer.

And, speaking of broccoli, it is VERY, VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT OVER COOK THE BROCCOLI. Was I too subtle? I really hope not. Unless you actually enjoyed eating the brownish, texture-less glop of overcooked, cloyingly-odorous substance that once may have been broccoli that was served in your elementary school cafeteria, you need to trust me on this. The desired point at which to drain the broccoli is when it is bright green and "crisp-tender," as my Dad calls it: that is, easy to bite through without a crispy-crunchy sound, but still quite firm in the center.

On the same subject: it is actually important to have the broccoli and the chicken in two separate layers. You may be tempted to just mix it all together: what's the difference, right? Well, the difference is that the flavor of the chicken is enhanced by being on the top and getting slightly browned, while being on the bottom layer helps insulate the broccoli from being cooked too much during the baking process. Plus, it looks cool and yummyyummy with the layer of sharp cheddar cheese between the green of the broccoli layer and the golden brown of the chicken layer. Pretty foods taste better: I don't know why, but it's true. It may seem tedious, but it is well worth the extra three minutes it takes in prep time for the end result.

Traditionally, Chicken Divan is made with sherry. Here's the thing: I don't like sherry, and I don't want to spend my money on it: all it would do would be grow dusty in a corner of my cabinet, which for some reason seems wasteful to me. However, I didn't want to completely lose the flavor and texture benefits of a dry alcohol in the sauce. So, I substituted an extremely dry, rich white wine, and thought the result was delicious. So, use the traditional sherry, or substitute white wine if you're more likely to finish a bottle of that than of sherry, or omit it all together if you don't cook with alcohol. Whichever way you decide to go on that, the recipe itself is so solid and flavorful that you won't go wrong.

Chicken Divan

• 1 stick butter, divided
• 1T olive oil
• 1 large leek or two small leeks, cut in half lengthwise and then sliced into crescent-moons (as pictured above) 
• The dark-green tops of the leeks, washed, rinsed and left whole
• 1 1/2 lbs. chicken breasts, cut into quarters
• 1 large head broccoli or three broccoli crowns: washed, rinsed and cut into bite-sized pieces
• 1/3 cup flour
• 1 c slivered almonds
• 1 c light cream
• 1 cup sour cream
• juice of 1 lemon
• 1/3 lb. shredded parmesan cheese
• 1/4 c sherry or dry white wine
• 1 c shredded sharp cheddar cheese
• 1 c bread crumbs

1. Melt 1 T of the butter in the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saute pan. Add the leeks and saute over medium heat until they are soft and translucent. Set aside.
2. Bring 8 cups water to a boil. Add the chicken and the green tops of the leek. Boil until the chicken is fully cooked, approximately 10-15 minutes. Remove the chicken and leek tops with a slotted spoon: DO NOT DRAIN. Discard the leek tops; set the chicken aside to cool some.
3. Add the broccoli to the water in which the chicken was cooked. Cook only until bright green, 3-5 minutes. Drain, but reserve 1 1/2 cups of the broth for the sauce. Mix the leeks and the broccoli.
4. Melt 4 T of the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add the flour, and stir until smooth and fragrant. Slowly and gradually stir in the reserved broth. Stir in the almonds and cook, stirring constantly, until thick and bubbly. Lower the heat to medium-low. Gradually stir in the cream, sour cream and lemon juice: cook for 2 minutes, still stirring constantly. Add salt and pepper to taste, then stir in half the parmesan and the sherry or dry white wine. Remove from heat. 
5. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. 
6. Shred the chicken into small pieces with your fingers.
7. Add half the sauce to the chicken, and half to the broccoli. Stir gently but thoroughly. 
8. Melt the remaining butter, and stir into the breadcrumbs. 
9. Put the broccoli into a lightly buttered casserole dish. Top with the cheddar cheese, then cover with the chicken mixture. Top the chicken with the remaining parmesan cheese, then distribute the breadcrumbs over the cheese. 
10. Bake for 30 minutes, until the sauce is bubbly. Increase heat to 450 and cook approximately 10 more minutes until the top is browned. Allow to sit 15 minutes before serving.

 Honey-Mustard Vinaigrette

• 2 T apple cider vinegar
• 1/4 c lemon juice
• 2 T honey
• 2 T spicy mustard
• 1 1/2 t tarragon
• 1/2 c olive oil
• salt and pepper to taste

1.  Place the first five ingredients in a blender. Blend over first low, then high speed.
2. Gradually, in a slow, thin stream, pour the oil through the hole in the lid with the blender still going. Doing this slowly and on high speed will help prevent separation of the ingredients.
3. Season with salt and pepper to taste: fell free to adjust the amounts of the lemon juice, honey, mustard, tarragon and oil to suit your taste preferences.

Veggie-ful Rotini-and-Cheese

So, I don't really know anything about the demographics of the writers of other food blogs, but I'm guessing I fall somewhat outside of the norm. This probably true even if we do ignore, for the moment, the obvious traits that distinguish me from the average person in nearly any environment-- you know, the 2nd-generation-Caucasian-American-Buddhist thing and the whole pesky queer-person-with-a-gender-outside-the-binary thing.

You see, being a foodie typically requires a budget that allows for extravagances and the time to dedicate to preparing beautiful recipes that are more "created" than they are "cooked."

Yeah, right. I wish I could do that, and nothing else. However, it is good for you, kind reader, that I can't, because it means that the recipes that I am posting on this blog are, more often than not, simple enough to make amidst the cold, cruel realities of modern life. Yaaaaaay.

I work two jobs: one full time, one part time. I don't do this solely for the joy of being of service to the world: I actually really need the money from both jobs. My boo and I have to do grown-up things like budgeting our money and simplifying expenditures. I'd love to dine on truffle mushrooms and crème fraiche, but the reality is that the pragmatics of the Working Trannies' life make that pretty much impossible.

Sometimes, I get sleepy, and achy, and grumpy, and whiny, and don't feel like making dinner at all. But when you combine the pressure of Lee's first year of law school with the fact that I enjoy cooking, well, you get a situation that involves me cooking a lot.

Sure, we could just go out to eat. However, there are two major downsides to eating out on a regular basis: the first is that it gets really expensive really fast.

Furthermore, when you eat out, the truth is that you don't really know what you're eating. Chances are you didn't research the restaurant's suppliers, and you are probably eating produce from another continent that been sprayed in chemicals and trucked across the nation, deprived of sunlight, and lacking about half of the flavor and nutrients that it once had. Add to that the fact that you have no proof whether or not one of the kitchen employees decided to save a little time by cutting out that pesky "wash-and-rinse-the-produce" step, and who knows anymore whether the benefits of eating that meal really outweigh the costs.

So I do what I can to feed us well. Every once in a while, on a weekend when I don't have to work, I'll gild the lily and really go all-out on a meal. The rest of the time, I just want to make something that's affordable, nutritious, and home-made in whatever time I have available.Of course, the fact that I love to cook does make me willing to spend more time at it than some people would, but the fact remains that I have limited time to work with when it comes to cooking, especially if I want to have dinner ready before midnight (which I usually do).

One important disclaimer: when I think about how healthy a food is or is not, there are some criteria that I consider more personally important than other criteria. I am not terribly worried about low-fat, low-calorie considerations. In fact, I think that the cultural obsession with low-fat and low-calorie diets has resulted in so many people eating pre-prepared, chemically altered, packaged "foods" that have been designed not by nature, but by a lab. Nitrates, nitrites and sulfates abound. Partially hydrogenated substances that are the biological equivalent of pouring sand into a watch are guzzled down gullets with enthusiasm. People no longer know how their food was grown, whether it is in season, where it came from, or what's in it.

If you do choose to substitute one of the ingredients in my recipe for a more low-fat or vegan alternative, well, do what you have to do. But I would suggest making sure that you educate yourself as to the exact ingredients of what you're adding, and consider where the ingredients were produced.

I am going to reiterate something I wrote in an earlier post: "The energy we take into our body has a direct, undeniable connection to the energy we have to use in the world, and it is my hope that the forward-thinking revolutionary queers will all be filled with the best possible fuel for changing the world." It would be very sad if our culture and our community lost their connection to our sources of life-sustaining energy. Don't let that happen to you. 

What I do consider when making meals that will nourish is whether or not the food is in season, whether or not it is growing locally, and whether or not the foods that I am going to prepare create a well-balanced meal.

Some tips for this recipe: don't overcook the pasta. Given the baking time that happens after you cook the noodles, make sure they are al-dente, or even a little shy of al-dente. Unless you want to eat cheesy mush. Which just isn't as good as cheesy pasta.

Change the vegetables that you put in it based upon what is fresh where you live. Right now, Lee and I still have tomatoes growing in our backyard, which is nice. Once tomatoes go out of season, they go out of the recipe. It's just that simple. Winter tomatoes are gross, while imported tomatoes are grown in an unappetizing pesticide marinade. Blech. There are many things I enjoy putting in my mouth: crunchy tomatoes and pesticides are not among them.

Use whatever shape and size of pasta you want, other than lasagne noodles and manicotti shells, which just wouldn't work for this recipe (but will be used in future recipes, I promise!). Just make sure you don't overcook them.

If you want to add some fresh herbs, I suggest tarragon, basil, or dill, approximately 2 T (chopped coarsely) per batch. But don't feel obligated. Sometimes just a simple mac-and-cheese is all that is called for, without pretension or adornment.


With that said, what follows is a delicious, economical dish that is simple and quick to make. It is not low-fat. And yet, it is still nourishing. Enjoy.

Adapted from my grandmother's recipe.

 Veggie-ful Rotini-and-Cheese

• 1 pound rainbow rotini (or other pasta), cooked just short of al-dente
• 1 pound sharp cheese, shredded (the tried-and-true standard is sharp cheddar, but feel free to experiment with other cheeses, or to substitute 6 oz. goat cheese for some of the shredded cheese)
• 2 1/2 cups light cream or whole milk
• 3-4 T unbleached all-purpose flour
• 8 oz. baby 'bella mushrooms, chopped coarsely and sauteed
• 6 oz. baby spinach, chopped coarsely and sauteed just until it is soft and dark green
• 2 plum tomatoes or 1 heritage tomato, sliced very thinly
• salt and pepper to taste

1.  Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Put the cheese, cream or milk, and flour in a large, heavy-bottomed saute pan. Melt over low heat, stirring constantly, until the cheese is melted and the mixture is hot. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir in the mushrooms, spinach and tomatoes.
3. Mix the sauce into the pasta until it is evenly distributed. 
4. Pour the pasta into a large baking dish or two medium baking dishes. 
5. Bake in the preheated oven 25-30 minutes, until the top is lightly browned and slightly crunchy and the sauce is bubbling happily. 
6. Let sit for 10 minutes before serving.