Legen-(wait for it)-dary Banana Bread

So, it has been a long time since my last post. Over a month. I am not going to bore or insult you with a long enumeration of reasons why this was, but trust me, I've been busy doing very worthwhile, necessary things. I apologize, and hope you will all be able to forgive me.

One of things I did was spend a week in Indiana, visiting various friends and family members. It was a precious and enjoyable trip: I feel as though I connected with my family on a deeper and more authentic level than ever before, and it was a complete joy. *cue the kittens and rainbows* *audience gagging from the overly sweet aftertaste of my sentimentality*

But seriously, it was that good. So, there.

Of the many people I spent time with while in the Hoosier state, there was one friend who I was particularly excited to see, Cherrie. You see, she and I were like soul-siblings for several years.

For example: nine years ago, when I got back from a month on the Appalachian Trail, her home was the first place I went to when I got back to Indiana. One of my favorite pictures of me of all time was taken that day. It shows me, sweaty and buff and clothed in dirty forest gear, lifting all three of her daughters at once: one on my back and one in each arm. My hair was dreadlocked, my knees were scuffed and scabbed, and I was smiling the dorkiest, most delighted smile you can imagine. She and her family were like home for me.

Then, sadly, Cherrie and I had a parting of the ways. It was over everything and nothing, and the long and short of it is that we didn't speak for over 3 years. By the time our feelings had settled, our phone numbers and email addresses had changed, and both of us had moved. Sigh. Although I wanted to, I had no way to reach her.

That is, until we found each other in the virtual ether of Facebook. After the apologies, we exchanged messages, pleasantries and links in the way that all good Facebook friends do. Which was a perfect delight, except for the way that it made me miss her and her family even more than I had.

So, of course I made it a priority to spend some time with her while I was in the area. It was such a joy to sit down with Cherrie over a cup of coffee, talking about everything and nothing while her daughters and husband chatted, played, and watched television in the next room. We made dinner together, laughing and catching up on how our lives have shifted and changed.

One thing that particularly tickled me was the way they all remembered my banana bread. In fact, when I was on the phone with Cherrie, before I even got to their home, I could here the young voices in the background asking if I would be able to make banana bread while I was there. I knew that they always loved it, but I honestly didn't expect that, years later, they'd still be raving about it.

Sadly, I didn't have the time to make bread while I was there, but I made them a promise: upon my return to Rochester, I would make a few loaves of the banana bread recipe that they so fondly remembered and send it on to them. I also promised that my first blog post after my more-than-a-month-long hiatus would be the recipe.

I did as I promised, and sent two loaves on to them: I just got a call a few hours ago from Cherrie that the loaves arrived. She thanked me, we chatted a bit about the general stresses and joys of life, and when I finally hung up, I had a big smile on my face. It is truly one of the blessings of life to be able to share our gifts, talents, and food with loved ones.

So, now there's nothing left to do but post the recipe.

Just so you know, this isn't the world's healthiest bread recipe: it actually exists somewhere on the border between bread and cake. But it is beyond delicious, and should be made and enjoyed often, despite the butter and sugar within.

If you do want to boost the nutritional value a bit, be sure to use a whole grain flour or oat flour, and add the optional nuts and dried fruits. You can also substitute 1/2 c wheat germ for 1/2 c of the flour. Even if you do none of these things, at least there's a plethora of banana in the recipe to ensure that there are some vitamins and minerals to go along with the sweet indulgence.

This recipe has two ingredients that make it different than most other banana breads, and it is these two items that make it such a moist, memorable bread: yogurt and maple syrup. They are such simple, commonplace ingredients, but they do wonders towards improving the texture of the finished loaves.

One quick tip: I find that it really helps to grease the measuring cup lightly with canola oil when measuring viscous, sweet liquids such as maple syrup, honey and molasses. I mean, why waste the gooey sweetness because it's stuck on the side of the measuring cup and all along your rubber spatula, when you could easily just pour it all in with no trouble?

Whenever you bake with bananas, you want them to be really ripe. Like, almost completely brown and kinda gross and slimy on the inside. Also, whenever you have some bananas that are going overripe but not the time to make bread, feel free to freeze them in an airtight baggie until you have the opportunity to bake. After all, why waste the most important ingredient of this delicious recipe??

Making this recipe takes some time, patience and attention: there are quite a few steps, and all of them are important. That's why I make a big enough batch of batter to make several loaves at once: even if it's too much bread, these loaves freeze well and can make some pretty transcendent french toast. And as long as you follow the directions and avoid over-baking it, it is guaranteed to be the most legendary banana bread you've ever had.

Legen-(wait for it)-dary Banana Bread

(Makes three 8 1/2 by 4 1/2 loaves)
(Have all ingredients at room temperature)

•  4 1/2 c sifted flour (Yes, it really makes a difference if you don't sift it. Just do it.)
• 1 1/2 t baking soda
• 1 t baking powder
• 1 t salt
• 2 c mashed ripe bananas 
• 1/2 c plain yogurt
• 2 t vanilla
• 2 sticks butter, softened
• 1/2 c maple syrup
• 1/2 c sugar
• 1/2 c brown sugar
• 1 1/2 t grated lemon zest (optional)
• 4 large eggs
• 1 c chopped nuts (optional)
• 1/2 c chopped dried apricots or other dried fruit (optional)

1. Whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.
2. Combine the mashed bananas, yogurt, and vanilla. 
3. Beat the butter until creamy. Gradually add the maple syrup. Then, gradually add the sugars and lemon zest (if using): beat until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time.
4. Add the flour mixture in three parts, alternately with the banana mixture in two parts, beating until smooth after each addition. Add the nuts and dried fruit, if using. 
5. Scrape the batter into lightly greased bread pans. Smooth out the top with the back of a spoon or spatula. 
6. Bake at 350 degrees F until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out nearly clean, about 45 minutes. Rotate the pans halfway through the baking time (unless you're lucky enough to have a kickass convection oven, in which case you can skip this step and know that I am very, very jealous of you).
7. Allow to cool for 10 minutes, and then gently slide a thin knife around the edge of the pans to loosen the loaves. Invert the pan to remove the bread from the pans. Allow to cool at least another 15 minutes before slicing.

Roasted Poblano Corn Muffins

Okay, so I decided that black bean soup (http://bit.ly/fimd0P) was a great idea... but that it would be an even better idea if it was served next to some cornmeal muffins. Argue with me if you dare: I'm pretty sure I'm right.

Unlike many baked items, the batter for corn muffins can be altered in any number of ways and still turn out perfectly. Feel free to fold in chopped veggies, bacon, or ham (be sure to cook these ingredients first!). When corn is back in season next summer, add some diced fresh corn. Add a teaspoon or two of diced fresh herbs, or (if you want your muffins to be particularly zesty) 2 t of chili powder and 1/2 t of cumin. And, of course, some grated cheese also works well in this recipe. For any of these variations, just substitute whatever addition(s) you've decided upon for the poblano pepper and fold them in during step 3.

However, I decided to keep it fairly simple tonight, since the black bean soup is already hearty and flavorful. So, I roasted one poblano pepper (for info on roasting peppers, visit my previous post on "Spinach, Mushroom, Kalamata and Roasted Pepper White Pizza," http://bit.ly/ghDRsq).

One warning: this recipe makes a batter that is thinner than many muffin batters. Don't worry. It will be okay. :-)

All other hints and tips are worked right into the recipe. And that's that: enjoy!

Roasted Poblano Corn Muffins

• 1 1/4 c yellow cornmeal
• 1 1/4 c sifted all-purpose flour
• 2/3 c granulated sugar
• 2 t baking powder
• 1 t baking soda
• 1/2 heaping t salt
• 1 c sour cream
• 1 c milk
• 4 eggs, beaten
• 1 stick butter, melted
• 1 roasted poblano pepper, diced

1. Combine the dry ingredients with a whisk.
2. Mix together the sour cream, milk, eggs and butter. Add to the dry ingredients and stir just until blended.
3. Fold in the poblano pepper.
4. Portion into a greased muffin tin, filling approximately two-thirds full.
5. Bake at 375 degrees F until done, approximately 20 to 25 minutes.

Bread Pudding

Today, I am going to not one, but TWO Thanksgiving meals: one with a friend's wonderful family, and one with the sangha at the Zen Center.

Seriously: there are so many things for which I am grateful.  Not only do I have the ability to cook, but I have the physical capability to do it (no small thing, when we're humbly honest with ourselves), food to cook with, and so many incredible people with whom to break bread and share water.

Just for today, I am going to set aside my righteous indignation regarding the injustices in the world and my frustrations about the genocidal roots of the historical holiday, and just be grateful. After all, if even Noam Chomsky can take a day off (http://bitURL.net/auac), then I can too.

 Each of the two meals is a potluck: after all, Thanksgiving is a lot saner when everyone chips in. I am going to make two Beet, Potato and Wild Mushroom Casseroles (http://bitURL.net/auae), the subject of one of my previous blog posts. I am also going to make the following recipe for Bread Pudding, just because.

This recipe is deceptive: for as layered and exquisite as the flavor is, it is surprisingly easy to make. It is also a great recipe to help prevent food waste: whenever I get a few too many bagels, or if a loaf of bread isn't getting eaten as quickly as it usually does, I save them in the freezer rather than discarding them. Of course, it is important to wrap the bread well, so that it doesn't get freezer-burnt, and to thaw it thoroughly before using. After thawing, go ahead and double-check the flavor, just to ascertain that there is no freezer-burn taste. It's better to check now than to wish you had later.

 Because I am taking this recipe to two different celebrations, I will be baking it in two separate pie pans instead of in a 13-by-9 inch baking pan. You, too, can choose to bake it in bread pans or a Bundt pan: just be sure to be EXTRA attentive to the cooking time if you do so, because it can change quite dramatically when differently-sized pans are used.

Bread Pudding

• 1/2 cup (slightly heaping) golden raisins
• 1/4 c amaretto
• 4 T butter, melted
• 12 oz. (approx. 4-5 cups, depending on the density of the baked goods) bread, bagels, or pastries, day-old
• 1 qt. light cream
• 3 eggs
• 1 2/3 c sugar
• 1 T vanilla extract

1. Combine the raisins and the amaretto in a small saucepan. Heat just to a simmer, cover, and set aside.
2. Use a portion of the butter to thoroughly coat a 13-by-9 inch baking pan or two 9-inch pie pans. Reserve the remaining butter.
3. Tear the bread into chunks and place in a large bowl. Pour the cream over the bread and set aside until soft. 
4. Beat the eggs and sugar until smooth and thick. Add the vanilla, the remaining melted butter, and the raisins and amaretto.
5. Toss the eegg mixture with the bread gently to blend. Pour into the pan(s) and bake at 350 degrees F until browned and almost set, approximately 45 minutes. 
6. Serve warm.

Poppy Seed Cake

When my sister Diana and I were kids, there was one cake that we, almost without exception, always requested for our birthday cake: poppy seed cake. This was THE cake. The flavor, the texture, were just head-and-shoulders above the rest.

Now, given the fact that Diana's and my birthdays were only 10 days apart, we had an awful lot of this cake for a very delicious two weeks every October. Which may or may not be part of why I have such a deep affinity and preference for autumn. Autumn=yummy cake. If you think that's not a good reason to settle upon a favorite season, then, well, you probably haven't had this cake.

As you know if you read the past posts on this blog, I just recently celebrated my 30th birthday. So, for old-time's sake, I whipped up this favorite cake from my childhood.

This may seem like an odd favorite cake for young kids to have. There is no frosting. It is not technicolor. It has poppy seeds, an ingredient most commonly used by hippies and bagel-makers. This is a well-grounded, unpretentious cake. It is what it is, and doesn't go on putting on airs. It's a nutty, sweet, delicious, neutral-toned delicacy. It's kinda the butch dyke of the cake world.

And, as cakes go, there aren't many tips and suggestions that I need to give about this cake.

However, it is important to have all the ingredients at room temperature before you start preparing the batter. But, since this is true for all cake recipes, it's not terribly surprising. The kitchen-standby The Joy of Cooking tells us why this is important:

"In general, before starting to bake, all ingredients should be at room temperature (68 to 70 degrees F). This is especially important with butter cake recipes, where the butter, liquid and eggs are intended to form an emulsion during the mixing steps. Emulsions can break or curdle (like a sauce) if some ingredients are colder than the others. When this happens, the batter loses its ability to trap air, and the cake will be heavy.

"Butter should still be cool-- from 60 to 70 degrees F-- but malleable when squeezed, not soft and squishy. Butter that is too soft or melted will not trap air and the batter and collapse with prolonged beating. [Which, truth be told, is true for most of us...]

"Cold eggs do not increase in volume when beaten as much as room-temperature or warm eggs, and when they are too cold, they won't blend smoothly into batters...."

So now you know.

Also, be an obsessive-compulsive freak when it comes to separating the eggs. I normally do not endorse up-tightness, but in this case, I make an exception. If you get any-- and I mean any-- of the yolk into the whites, they will not get all fluffy, happy, and joyous, and you will end up with a poppy seed brick.

On that note: it is also very important that you fold the egg whites in gently, or else... you've got it... poppy seed brick. Rather than go into a wordy, confusing description, I suggest that you watch this video if you have any doubts about the best way to fold: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP4vbktd-PM&feature=related. (I apologize for the cheesy music and annoying voice: but, after watching several online videos regarding how to fold egg whites, this really was the best I found, instructionally speaking. Maybe someday I'll make my own, complete with background music from The Cliks and a few choice vulgarities, but for now, this will have to do.)

The only other suggestion I have to make is to not over-do the cinnamon sprinkle on the top of the cake, or it will get too dark before the cake is fully baked. It will still be delicious, it just won't be as aesthetically pleasing.

This recipe is an adaptation of a recipe from Sunset magazine that appeared over 20 years ago. Enjoy!

Poppy Seed Cake

• 1/2 lb. (2 sticks) butter, at room temperature
• 2 1/2 c unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 can (12.5 oz.) poppy seed pie filling
• 1 c buttermilk
• 1 T almond extract
• 4 extra-large eggs, separated
• 1 1/2 c sugar, divided
• 1 t baking powder
• 1 t baking soda
• 1/2 t salt
• 1 T cinnamon

1. Butter and flour-dust a 10-inch decorative tube pan or 9-inch springform pan.
2. In a small bowl, mix poppy seed filling, buttermilk, and almond extract.
3. In a deep bowl, beat egg whites with a mixer on high until foamy. Continue beating and gradually add 1/4 cup of the sugar. Beat until whites hold stiff, shiny peaks.
4. In another bowl, using unwashed beaters, beat 1 cup butter and 1 cup of the sugar on high speed until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks and beat until well blended. Stir in poppy seed mixture.
5. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
6. Add dry ingredients to batter; beat slowly to blend. Mix at medium speed.
7. Fold in beaten whites until blended.
8. Mix 1/4 cup of the sugar and the cinnamon. Pour half the batter into pan. Sprinkle with 2/3 of the cinnamon mixture. Add remaining batter and sprinkle with remaining cinnamon mixture. If you are using a tube pan, hold a knife vertically and draw the blade through batter around tube: this is not necessary if you are using a springform pan.
9. Bake in 350° oven just until cake springs back when lightly pressed in center, 1 to 1 1/4 hours.
10. Cool in pan 15 minutes. Invert cake onto a plate (or remove the outer piece of the springform pan). Serve warm or cool.

The Best Damn Focaccia Recipe Ever.

In my recent post on how to make Chicken Divan, I mentioned a book called On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals by Labensky, Hause and Martel. I love this book. Just flipping through it's smooth pages can calm me on a stressful day. I wish this book wasn't so pointy at the corners, so I could hug it more comfortably. I love this book.

I received the fifth edition of On Cooking as a Christmas present from my dad last year. Which is good, because as a rule I cannot afford cookbooks that cost $100+. This isn't just a cookbook, after all: this is used as a textbook in almost all culinary schools in English-speaking countries. On Cooking doesn't just give you an enumeration of recipes: it gives detailed, important information about ingredients and cooking techniques that goes about five steps further towards true intimacy with the food than the average cookbook even attempts to impart.

Now, here's the thing: my friend Amy requested that I make a post about "focaccia that doesn't resemble a big crouton." Here's the other thing: although I have enjoyed good focaccia on many occasions, I've never actually made it before. So here's the result: I consulted On Cooking, to see if it had a recipe for focaccia. And, joy of joys, it did!

I made this recipe last night, and it turned out just perfectly. Dense, but still oh so flavorful, soft, tender and moist.

Here are the few tips I have for this recipe:

Don't be put off by the inclusion of onion. As long as you mince the onion very finely, you won't end up with noticeable chunks of onion in the finished focaccia. The onion just adds a richer flavor, and releases just enough moisture into the dough during the baking process to prevent crouton-like results. (Now you know the secret, Amy!)

Also, don't use too much onion. If you don't have a kitchen scale, weigh the onion at the grocery store and select one just slightly under 1/4 pound.

Do add the flour 1/4 cup at a time, as the recipe suggests. This may seem tedious, but it will help to develop the gluten in the flour, which is helpful since focaccia isn't kneaded for as long of a time as most other yeast breads.

Also, you will have to use your judgment regarding how much flour to add: the air was so humid yesterday that I had to use significantly more than the recipe called for. With that said, this will be a MUCH softer dough than most bread doughs: the finished dough should be somewhere in-between the consistency of cake batter and the consistency of cookie dough. Start kneading the flour into the dough as soon as you can: it will still be sticky, and some will get stuck on the kneading surface and your hands. Deal with it. It's a sacrifice you make to have soft, tasty treats instead of dry rosemary-flavored dog biscuits.

Use Kosher salt: do not substitute finely-ground table salt. Just trust me on this.

And that's about it. I included the very few minor adjustments that I made to the recipe, but the recipes in this book are always so good that there aren't many of them.

Focaccia (Roman Flatbread)

• 1 T honey (vegans can substitute sugar or agave nectar)
• 1 T active dry yeast
• 1 1/2 c lukewarm water
• between 2 1/4 c and 3 1/4 c flour
• 2 t Kosher salt, divided
• 3 oz. onion, very finely chopped
• 1-2 T olive oil
• 2 T fresh rosemary, crushed and very coarsely chopped

1. Combine the honey, yeast and water. Stir to dissolve the yeast. Stir in the flour 1/4 cup at a time: keep in mind that you will add 1/4-1/2 cup more flour to the dough during the kneading process, so stop as soon as you have a soft dough that is just barely firm enough to be kneaded.
2. Stir in 1 1/2 t of the salt and the onion. Mix well, then knead on a lightly floured surface until very smooth.
3. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, turning the dough over once so the top is also lightly coated with oil. Cover with a warm, moist towel and allow to sit until doubled in bulk.
4. Punch down the dough, then flatten it onto a parchment paper-lined sheet pan. It should be no more than 1 inch thick. Brush the top of the dough with the olive oil. Let the dough proof until doubled, 15-30 minutes.
5. Sprinkle the rosemary and remaining salt on top of the dough. Bake at 400 degrees F until lightly browned, 20-30 minutes.